04 Lyme Regis Fossil Hunting
Lyme Regis: The Fossil Capital of Britain
*Perched on the Dorset coast where the county meets Devon, Lyme Regis
has been attracting visitors since the 18th century. Jane Austen set
part of Persuasion here; Victorian tourists came for the sea air; and
today, fossil hunters from around the world make pilgrimages to these
beaches where 200-million-year-old creatures lie waiting to be
discovered.*
Mary Anning: The Fossil Hunter Who Changed Science
No account of Lyme Regis can begin without Mary Anning. Born in 1799 to
a poor family in the town, Anning became one of the most important
figures in the history of palaeontology—though as a woman and
working-class outsider, she received little recognition in her lifetime.
Anning’s father supplemented his cabinet-making income by selling
fossils to tourists, and after his early death, Mary and her brother
continued the trade. But Mary had an extraordinary eye and an insatiable
curiosity. In 1811, when she was just twelve, she discovered the first
complete Ichthyosaurus fossil—a marine reptile that forced scientists
to reconsider everything they thought they knew about Earth’s history.
Over the following decades, Anning found the first complete
Plesiosaurus, the first British pterosaur, and countless other specimens
that now grace museum collections worldwide. She was consulted by the
leading geologists of the age, yet was unable to join the scientific
societies that excluded women, and died in relative poverty in 1847.
Today, Lyme Regis properly celebrates its most famous daughter. A statue
of Mary Anning and her dog Tray stands on the seafront, and the
excellent Lyme Regis Museum—built on the site of her home—tells her
story with the respect she deserves.
Finding Your Own Fossils
The good news for visitors is that fossils remain remarkably easy to
find on the beaches around Lyme Regis. The Blue Lias cliffs between Lyme
and Charmouth are constantly eroding, exposing new specimens after every
storm and high tide. Most common are ammonites—the coiled shells of
extinct marine molluscs—and bullet-shaped belemnites, the internal
shells of squid-like creatures.
For beginners, the best approach is to join one of the guided fossil
walks led by the Lyme Regis Museum or Charmouth Heritage Coast Centre.
These walks, typically lasting two to three hours, teach you what to
look for, where to search safely, and how to identify your finds. The
guides are knowledgeable, enthusiastic, and share fascinating stories
about the ancient seas that once covered this landscape.
If you prefer to search independently, head to the beach at low tide and
look among the loose rocks and pebbles. Never dig into the cliffs or
approach the cliff base—falls are unpredictable and fatal accidents
have occurred. The fossils that wash onto the beach are both safer to
collect and already cleaned by the sea.
What You Might Find
Ammonites are the most common fossils and range from tiny specimens
smaller than a fingernail to giants over a foot in diameter. They’re
often preserved in iron pyrite—fool’s gold—which gives them a
beautiful golden sheen. However, pyrite decays when exposed to air, so
these specimens need careful conservation.
Belemnites look like stone bullets and are found in enormous numbers.
They were the internal shells of creatures related to modern squid, and
the pointed shells helped propel these animals through Jurassic seas.
Devil’s toenails—the curved shells of ancient oysters—are also
common and make distinctive finds.
More exciting but rarer are vertebrate fossils: the bones, teeth, and
vertebrae of the marine reptiles that Anning made famous. If you find
something that looks like bone or teeth, photograph it in place and
report it to the museum or heritage centre. Significant finds should be
properly recorded and may be of scientific importance.
The Town Itself
Beyond fossils, Lyme Regis is simply a delightful small town. The
Cobb—the curving stone harbour wall that features so memorably in
Persuasion and The French Lieutenant’s Woman—remains the town’s
defining feature. Walking its length with the sea spray on your face is
pure Dorset coast experience.
The town has excellent restaurants, from traditional fish and chip shops
to more sophisticated dining. The independent shops sell everything from
fossils and geological hammers to local art and vintage clothes. Several
good pubs offer real ales and hearty food, and the overall atmosphere is
of a place that has resisted excessive commercialization.
Lyme is also an excellent base for walking the South West Coast Path.
The stretch west toward the Devon border passes through dramatically
unstable coastline—the result of massive landslips—while eastward
the path climbs to Golden Cap and the spectacular cliffs beyond.
Charmouth: Lyme’s Quieter Neighbour
Just a couple of miles east of Lyme, the village of Charmouth offers
equally good fossil hunting with fewer crowds. The beach here is pebbly
and backed by the same Blue Lias cliffs, and the Charmouth Heritage
Coast Centre provides an excellent introduction to the area’s geology
and fossils.
The walk between Lyme and Charmouth along the coast path takes about an
hour and offers constantly changing views of the cliffs and sea. You can
also drive between the two villages in minutes, making it easy to
explore both beaches on the same day.
Planning Your Visit
Fossil hunting is best at low tide, so check tide tables before planning
your day. The beaches are accessible in all seasons, though winter
storms reveal the most new material. The guided walks run throughout the
year but should be booked in advance, especially in summer.
Essential equipment includes sturdy footwear (the rocks are slippery),
waterproof clothing, and a bag for finds. Geological hammers are useful
but not essential for beginners—there are plenty of fossils lying
loose on the beach. A basic guidebook to Jurassic Coast fossils will
help with identification.
Allow a full day for Lyme Regis, combining fossil hunting with
exploration of the town, a walk along the Cobb, and perhaps the coastal
path to Charmouth. This is a place to savour, not rush.